Wednesday, April 11, 2012

gym notes: tall, self-conscious climber

I'm 6' exactly.  Medical assistants comment on it when they take my height and weight.  "Wow, right on the dot!"  Between my height, a neutral ape index and a muscular-ish build, I have all the tools to yard through a lot of moderate climbing.

Problem is, I hate doing that, and tonight's bouldering session brought that home for me.  A group of shorter folks were working a V3, the crux of which was a sideways dyno.  They urged me to try it.  "You should get on it, man, you've got that reach," someone said.  I didn't touch the thing.  Sporty V3 is tough for me anyway, especially coming off a week of Joshua Tree granite (more on that soon).  Only some truly heinous flailing would get me up that problem, and a "send" like that just...doesn't feel worthwhile.  I see guys my size (let's be real, it's usually guys) getting super gripped in weird positions, legs shaking, elbow chicken-winging, shoulders up near their ears, every move a spasm.  No matter the grade or if they send, that kind of climbing just doesn't inspire me.  Grace and balance do.

So I tinkered with something that actually intrigued me, a pinch problem with little balanced cat-moves on it.  Finding the finishing jugs on it satisfied me in a way no awkward yarding ever could.